In her own words...
It was French for Blue Trout, which was a thing on the menu. Once we were in a mountain village inn and I was served a ‘truite au bleu,’ which consists of fishing the trout out of a rushing torrent that runs by the hotel and plunging it into boiling water live. At this point it turns bright blue and arches its back in a kind of ecstasy of death, I like to think.
–from unpublished notes, 1989